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When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, nestled high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary honour.